Bound for St Helena

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Tues 23 July 2013

	Day 1 - or is it Day 2? We left Heathrow yesterday evening and after a fairly uneventful, almost boring, night arrived in Cape Town to the sun rising on one side of the plane and the moon setting on the other:

	We then met up with the rest of the team and (yes, honestly) had a meeting to plan our approach to the forthcoming seminar in St Helena. We then went for lunch and a walk and then a bus tour of the city. Table mountain across the Bay:

	The Atlantic coast:

	And a view which is slightly worrying for tomorrow's sea!

Wed 24 July 2013

	Day 2 - The morning was spent wandering around Cape Town then taxi at 1.00 to take us to the ship for departure at 2.30. We had learned yesterday that our ship, RMS St Helena, had been in dry dock for the past couple of weeks and that there were always problems after dry dock. And when we arrived we were told that embarkation had been put back to 5.00 - there were buses available to take us to town, if we wanted. So we went back. At 5.00 we learned they were still loading the ship and departure would not be until Thursday morning. So, do we sit on the ship or go back to the town? - we went back again as we would still have five days sitting on the ship (we hoped.) On a lighter note, or one that highlighted the difference between the RMS St Helena and a tourst ship, there was an announcement asking all passengers carrying live fish to report to the office.

	There were some very nicely restored buildings.

	The sun started to go lower:

	And then it set:

Thurs 25 July 2013

	Day 3 - It's a bit colder today - well, it is winter here. And another frustrating day as our departure was delayed and we made another trip into town. The first sign of hope came with 'immigration' announced for 1.00. That meant no further trips to town would be posible. Then at about 3.00 a further promising sign was an announcement of a 'stowaway search'. I was told later that they had found two.

	Leaving Cape Town:

Fri 26 July 2013

	Day 4 - The first full day at sea - and we spent much of it - well about four hours (there was a lot of eating to fit in) - analysing the constitution of St Helena. There was a brief moment of excitement when we thought we saw a whale - albeit at a very long distance. Otherwise a pleasant, mostly sunny, mostly calm day. We observed just now that the nearest land was: to our left, South America; to our right, Africa; ahead, the Bahamas and behind, Antarctica. Pedants might argue that that is not strictly true - but it is a flavour of just where we are. Wow! Next into Mess dress for the Captain's cocktail party - tricky staying upright with a glass as the ground swayed beneath you. Then a spectacular display of stars, including a meteor, followed by dinner. (Yup, it remains tough.)

	Sailing on:

Sat 27 July 2013

	Day 5 - More work but we were interrupted at about 11.30 by an announcement that there was a ship passing us so we went out to look at it. Indeed there was a ship - a tiny dot on the horizon. Clearly it is hard finding exciting things to look at out here!

	But then we did - we were circled by an albatross:

Sun 28 July 2013

	Day 6 - Sunday service led by the captain supported by the Book of Common Prayer and Hymns Ancient and Modern. Curiously, presumably to reflect potential US passengers, the hymn book had an insert with the words of the Battle Hymn of the Republic. Then a traditional St Helena curry for lunch. We were told that curry is standard Sunday fare on ships all over the world - it is a way of marking one day in the week as different.

	Then more reading and a sighting of a passing whale:

Mon 29 July 2013

	Day 7 - Last full day on the ship - not much wildlife on view - we were promised flying fish too but it is getting dark and there is no sign of them... So unreliable. Our bags are packed for tomorrow's disembarkation - it could be tricky and so we are instructed to wear sensible shoes and have our hands free. Supper on this last night is a barbecue so we are hoping the rain keeps off. According to my gps St Helena (at 6.00 pm) is 169 nautical miles away. According to Barry (the Guernsey member of the team and an ex sea-captain) there is no other land for 1,000 miles east or west. I believe them both. At our current 15 knots we should arrive at 5.00 am tomorrow - mercifully the captain has brought breakfast forward to only 7.00 am.

Tues 30 July 2013

	Day 8 - We arrived at precisely 7.00 - but the Captain did slow down towards the end (honest). He also invited us to the bridge at 6.00 am to watch as we sailed round the island prior to mooring in the bay. This we did and watched the sun rising as we sailed in. (Our joy was though slightly tarnished by learning that passengers on the other side of the ship had been watching a whale with its calf.) We have now left the ship, checked in to our hotel (the owner of which comes from Carmarthen) and delivered the first day of the seminar. My body though still feels like it is at sea and I keep having to hold onto things to avoid falling over! The Consulate hotel is closed for evening meals this week and so a late change in the programme was to arrange for us to be taken out for supper each night by a group of 3 Council members. Tonight we went to Sunflower Cafe, owned by one of the member's mothers. It was a restauarant but we were the only people there and ate in what seemed to be the front room. We had a fish salad to start, roast pork and vegetables, and a most wonderful fruit pavlova (with what we think was, home made ice cream). And then back to the hotel and a late night due to the vagaries of the internet here. I think after only one day I dislike Cable and Wireless as much as most of the residents appear to.

	Moored at Jamestown:

	I failed on my first day to take a shot that gives a characteristic view of Jamestown so have settled for the following which is a fairly standard shot of the place - taken from above:

Wed 31 July 2013

	Day 9 - Day 2 of the seminar and what we are offering seems to be going down well. Lord Shutt is leading with style and aplomb and an enormous array of knowledge and experience. Our last minute pick-up team is proving to have a very balanced and diverse mix of skills. We are though marooned as the RMS St Helena sailed out to Ascension Island today and will not be returning until Monday. I can think of worse places to have to stay - but it does illustrate the realities of this island. Virtually everything they use has to be brought in - and by our ship. Much is being thought and written about the future when the airport is opened and the ship most likely scrapped. But this blog tries to avoid serious stuff. So on a lighter note, but to illustrate the situation, we have handwash from Tesco tea from Asda, the milk in my room from Parmalat in South Africa and the water in the general stores across the road from the Brecon Beacons. And, at only 40p, is cheaper than in Cardiff. We finished earlyish today and so I took the opportunity to walk up (and down) Jacob's ladder - I am not sure of the precise figures but it has something like 700 steps to climb 900 feet. Then a reception at the Governor's - at which I was told I could get a certificate for doing Jacob's ladder and, when I told the Bishop I fancied looking round his cathedral, he offered me a personal tour and a cup of coffee. I fear I will not be able to fit this in, unfortunately. Then to Harris's Guest house for another personal restaurant experience and an excellent meal.

	Jacob's ladder:

Thurs 1 August 2013

	Day 10 - Today started with a trip to Annie's laundrette and by mid afternoon I had delivered to me half a dozen shirts and an equivalent amount of underwear, all washed and ironed for the princely sum of £10. I feel slightly guilty. I also collected my certificate for completing the Jacob's Ladder Challenge. They took my word that I had done it fairly (and £2.50.) At close of play I wandered up the main street in Jamestown seeing the sights. I also bumped into the Parliament's speaker who showed me the gift shop his wife ran and where they lived. Further up the road I came across the Baptist church and noticed a monument in its very small front and photographed the inscriptions around it. The side facing the road struck me because it reflected the harsher apects of St Helena's history and of that age:

Fri 2 August 2013

	Day 11 - We visited two schools this morning - Prince Andrew's (secondary) and St Paul's (primary). A fascinating time and an opportunity to meet some friendly and very switched on youg people. As we arrived at Prince Andrew's we were welcomed by a group of pupils called "Vocalz' singing a song: Punk Rocker. We were given their CD when we left. Then to the Castle for a session on the relationship between members and officials. Late afternoon we went for tea by the quay and caught sight of a couple of whales. This was followed by a walk around the headland to Rupert's Bay where we saw some dolphins. Supper was at 2onMain a 'training' restaurant which provided another excellent meal. I would have left then but was dragged up to the White Horse Tavern where David Shutt was accosted by what we though was a mildly inebriated pub goer in a red football shirt (you know the type!). And maybe it was but he was also from Yorkshire, Bradford in fact, and an honorary member of the House of Commons/Lords rughby team. The two of them spent the remaining half hour or so discussing peers they knew and the North. It's a small world.And all this was accompanied by music from the late 60s and 70s which seems a key element of life here - and the local radio stations.

Sat 3 August 2013

	Day 12 - We had a morning off today and went on a dolphin watching trip. We saw a pair of humpback whales and scores of dolphins - and black noddies (birds). Quite a trip! Then back for lunch in St Helena - fishcakes and return to the seminar in the afternoon. We had an extra meeting tonight, with a local group who wanted to discuss the relationship betweem St Helena and the UK. I do not know if this is a hazard of taking a peer with you or simply what happens on a small island. Our visit has been well publiciswed - we have been announced and analysed in the local newspapers - indeed people were aware of us and our 'mission' when we got on the ship. We have similar meetings Sunday and Monday evenings. Supper was at Wellington House - another restaurant cooking just for us and another excellent meal. This included more fishcakes - bad planning, or bad luck, on our part. This evenings were excellent and did seem slightly more authentic 'St Helena' than those at lunchtime. There are so many pictures from our boat trip to choose from - I have settled for a couple of dolphin shots.

Sun 4 August 2013

	Day 13 - Two more sleeps and we are off. It has seemed endless - stretching ahead indefinitely - and suddenly we are near the end. Today was a mix of sight-seeing and field trip. We went out to see the site of the new airport - it was massive - a major engineering exercise. A valley has to be filled in and then raised some 30 metres. We were accompanied by, and later went to the office of, Enterprise St Helena who talked us through some of the other investments that need to go with the airport. Alongside seeing these, we called at the house where Napoleon was exiled after the Battle of Waterloo - and then at Sandy Beach which was covered in black volcanic sand. It was too dangerous to swim there because of a vicious undertow. (Not that we were planning to do this.) Tim and I decided to back to the hotel on foot via Jacob's ladder - it was the downhill part of it. It was a dull and windy day. Colleagues from Saint Helena said they were surprised it had been so warm while we were here. They said they spoke of 'scruffy' August to describe the miserable winter weather. I repeatedly told them I did not know what they were moaning about - it was good enough for summer for me - and if they wanted to call it winter the weather was fantastic. Supper was back in Harris's guest house - our last supper out.

The airport site at Dry Gut:


Sandy Bay:



Mon 5 August 2013

	Day 14 - One more sleep ... but first ... the final day of the seminar, lunch with the Councillors and a wrap up session in which the phrase 'quietly spectacular' was used about our efforts. We did note also that over the week all the Councillors had attended every day which seemed a genuine measure of customer feeling.

	Then a quick last trip up and down Jacob's followed by best (casual) frocks for dinner with the Governor. And the ship is back:

Tues 6 August 2013

	Day 15 - And so we left St Helena with all the excitement that we had been told accompanies the ship's departure. First, we attended the opening half hour of the new Council's meeting. Then a press conference with the local newspapers. Then the local museum, some souvenir shopping and the walk down to the ship. Many of the new friends we had made came to see us off, the Speaker filmed us walking own the street, and off we went in an open boat to board the RMS St Helena. By way of an interesting example of the significane of this ship to St Helena: there was a story in the news here yesterday of a man who fell down a hillside and broke his leg trying to resuce one of his sheep. He is on the ship with us going to be treated in hospital in Cape Town.

Wed 7 August 2013

	Day 16 - A quiet day for all sorts of reasons. I think we are all tired after the demands of the last couple of weeks. The weather has been warm but dull with the occasional shower and there is an air of 'exam revision' about the place as many of our fellow travellers are getting on with reports of their visit. As are we: we had a meeting this morning to discuss our preliminasry conclusions and have another meeting planned for perhaps Friday My job is to write the report but I am not under an obligation to do it on the ship! We'll see - it will at least fill the time!

Thurs 8 August 2013

	Day 17 - Another dull day weatherwise - we are hoping tomorrow might bring us back into albatross country. The ship is bouncing around a bit - force 5s I was told when I did the Bridge tour - about as bad as it gets in this part of the ocean. It's not too bad actually - you just have to take care walking, especially if you have a cup of coffee in your hand. But I have not made much progress with the report! One way of dealing with the movement is to walk when the direction you are going is downhill - but when it is uphill, just wait until it changes. It is quite atrange though having a shower with the water swirling around the floor alternating between going down the drain at one side of the cubicle and then the other. On more mundane matters, Team Hansard did win the first round of the general knowledge quiz.

Fri 9 August 2013

	Day 18 - Tonight I saw the Southern Cross (and Saturn) and had a fascinating discussion with the ship's navigation officer about global positioning systems and 3-dimensional trignometry. He showed me his star tables and how he checks the ship's compass bearing. There are machines that can do all this for him - but it is interesting that navigation by the stars is still actively being done. Compared to this a slightly warmer day, a gentler sea, drafting a decent chunk of our report and winning Catchphrase this evening pale into insignificance. There was also an albatross and a petrel around. Four more sleeps and we are home.

Sat 10 August 2013

	Day 19 - The sea has calmed down a litle and I gather there was spray from a couple of whales this morning. I missed them because I was finishing a first draft of our report. (Aah!) It is our last night on board and we have speeded up with the better weather. We ended up second in the General Knowledge quiz and then had the Farewell candle-lit dinner. This was followed by frog racing:

Sun 11 August 2013

	Day 20 - Almost the end of the trip. We reached the pilot station at 3.00pm ish and then began the final stages. It was quite impressive to see the pilot leap out of his launch and in seconds clamber up a rope ladder to guide us in for the last mile or so. Then a long tedious wait for immigration and passport control before we were allowed off and into South Africa. It was nice to have some fresh food for supper though - some real bread (although I was told the ship's chef baked bread each day). I celebrated being in South Africa with smoked springbok and ostrich steak. And shortly I can stretch out in a real bed ... We dined with some of the friends we made on the adventure: Jane from Barcelona (alhough really from Whitchurch, Cardiff), Heidi from Massachusettes and her travelling companion Auntie Susan from Oregon. (Shades of Graham Greene there - but not too literally.) And with hugs we said goodbye to them as we were to take our separate ways tomorrow.

Back at Cape Town:



Mon-Tues 12/13 August 2013

	Days 21/22 - And so, after much of the day mooching around the Victoria Wharf in an overcast Cape Town, we headed for the airport and arrived in Heathrow at 6.40 am on Tuesday. Then after a few more farewells to our friends, the crack seminar team of Lord David, Tim, Barry, Joyce and me headed our separate ways into the sunset. (Ok, more likely the sunrise.)

Farewell at Jamestown:


Adieu mes amis.


The end.